If you follow me on social media or know me personally, you'll know I was in Yosemite National Park last weekend. I drove up there from San José as soon as my work training was done on Friday morning, stayed at Merced, CA for the night, and woke up very early to return to the valley on Saturday. I was expecting a slow, easy 9.6 mile RT morning-afternoon hike up to Glacier Point via the Four Mile Trail, one of Yosemite Valley's best rated day hikes, and a long car ride to hit Berkeley before sunset right after. 

I started on the trail at 08:30 AM PST after some leisure time in the valley taking pictures, where I almost bumped into a woman riding her bike. Trekking up the Four Mile Trail started far less promising than the previous night's hike up to Upper Yosemite Falls ,which I did out-and-back in 3.5 hours with a lot of down time for pictures and snacks. The views were incredible, though, and it was hard not to stop at every stretch of open trail side to snap pictures or enjoy the scenery.

"You need a picture with those waterfalls in the background. I'll take a picture of you.", said the lady next to me, who I suddenly recognized as the woman crossing the Swinging Bridge on her bicycle earlier, the one I almost ran into.

"Thank you so much", I said handing her my phone. "What's your name?", and put my hands up in the air for a picture.

"My name's Paula. What's yours?" 

She was trekking up the Four Mile Trail alone as well, so I adjusted my pace to walk with her for a while. She's a very outgoing woman, strong in her early 60's, full of life and high on adventure. She talked my ear off. Our conversation mostly revolved around the park: best waterfalls, how to go off the beaten path, the must-do's, what I definitely have to come back for. She knows Yosemite like the palm of her hand, and was taken aback when I informed her my day's plan consisted of a round trip on the 4-mile trail, with a lunch stop at Glacier Point before returning to my rental car. 

"No, no, no, if you're going up to Glacier Point, take the Panorama Trail around the valley instead of back the way you came from. This trail's not as scenic, Panorama has all the views of Half Dome and the valley without the crowds of people that drive up to Glacier Point.  A huge fire burned down the area decades ago and you can see all the best spots around. It'll be another 8 miles or so but it's mostly flat or downhill so it's not too bad. You go over Nevada Falls and Vernal Falls on your way down to Happy Isles, and take the shuttle back to the Village. You'll have to walk a bit back to your car but the views will be worth it." 

She stopped for some pictures and let me know she would take a while, indicating I should continue on alone. I felt like telling her that I could wait for her, but instead hurried along and was out of Paula's sight quickly. I made it to Glacier Point by lunchtime and sure enough, the views (and the crowd of drivers) were insane.

There were many reasons why I should not have taken Panorama Trail to Mist Trail after reaching Glacier Point. I had not packed enough food for a full day of walking under the sun, and was already in a pretty significant calorie deficit from the start. I was feeling the effect of cumulative fatigue after days (weeks?) of inadequate sleep and barely getting off of night shift. I still had a 4-hour drive to Berkeley, and was catching a flight out of Oakland going back home the following morning. The smart thing to do was stick to the plan, and leave the unknowns for a future trip to the area.

But of course I took the Panorama Trail.

I saw her again about 50 m ahead of me.

"Paula!"

"How in the world did I pass you?", she asked when I caught up to her.

"Oh, I stopped at Glacier Point for lunch and pictures, but you were right. This trail is so much better. It really pays to literally go the extra mile."

We spent a few hours together and talked about life on trails near and far. This woman had great stories: of biking the US coast to coast in the 80's, weathering a thunderstorm at the summit of Half Dome in her teens (way before permits were required), backpacking trips in Denali, and a more recent year-and-a-half long leave of absence from her job to do "many things". She gave me tidbits of history lessons here and there whenever she mentioned the park (I would've never known why and how the Hetch Hetchy reservoir was created). I mentioned the sketchy motel I had stayed at the night before, and we went on about what it means to be an adventurous woman, trusting our gut instincts & staying safe (from bears and bad people). 

We also talked briefly about more personal matters: settling down, getting married, children, which is how I learned she's a lesbian. Children is something she "never got around to have", but she seemed fine with that. In her words, "there's experiences you miss out with kids, and there's experiences you miss out without them". Hearing Paula's stories and experience gave me hope... I mean, who will I be for someone else 40 years from now? What feelings will the stories I share on the trail with younger girls mean to them then?

Less than two miles from Nevada Falls, Paula let me know she was stopping for lunch, but I had no more food or time to spare. Instead of hugging, she gave me five ibuprofen pills and told me to take care of myself. I picked up the slower pace I had maintained to walk with Paula for over maybe two hours, and again was quickly out of sight. I never saw her again. The rest of the trail was magical, as she had promised hours before. 

In a recent post on the things I wish I'd known before I started solo traveling, I mentioned that we never truly travel alone. I've come to call these people I meet once and impact in my life in a positive way angels. On Saturday, May 5, 2018, I know I shared the trail with one.

When I met her, I told Paula that she shared her name with my 5-month old "niece", who I hope to one day introduce the trails and mountains to. I want her to hear my stories, humble as they may be compared to Paula's, and that I inspire her to follow her heart. To explore the world. To never stop asking questions. To walk among trail angels. I want her to see in me another strong, outgoing, independent, determined woman she can look up to as she develops into one herself. I want her to enjoy the incomparable beauty and serenity that Nature offers anyone crazy enough to follow it everywhere... and although not necessary, I hope she chooses to share her own trails and stories with me.

PS. My summer will be crazy busy, so stay tuned for more posts and stories on my recent adventures!